FAQs

Question: 
If my acrylic is cracked, can I still tan in the unit?

Answer: 
We do not recommend tanning in a system with a cracked acrylic. However, the real reason would not be for overexposure. A cracked acrylic can cause a number of problems related to the safety of your tanning unit. First, a cracked acrylic may cause bodily harm (cuts, abrasions, etc.) to you or a customer. It could also allow a combination of perspiration, tanning lotion
and bed cleaner to drip inside the unit. It is good to be reminded that a tanning unit is an electrical device – liquids and electricity don’t mix!


Question: 
Why do I need to know when my bed was manufactured? Aren’t the parts the same for each year on this model?


Answer: 
As noted in the previous answer, minor changes made from year to year by manufacturers on the same model may affect internal parts, pistons, acrylic and other components. Trying to pinpoint the date of manufacturing will help us determine the right part for your unit. Sometimes, individual components can be discontinued by their respective manufacturers. When that occurs, we
try to determine whether there is a suitable substitute that will deliver the same performance as the original.


Question:
Where can I find the manufacturers label on my bed?

Answers:
It can be in a variety of locations, depending on the manufacturer. The most common placement is on the back side of the bench, at the head end of the unit. Others may be at the end of the bed on the bench and/or canopy. One possibility is also on the ballast tray, beneath the bench. For vertical tanning systems, look for the label near the timer controls or
the electrical junction box.


Question: 
How do I find the right type of piston (shock) for my tanning bed?

Answer:
It’s very important to copy down the numbers that are on the barrel of the piston or the label. Along with the brand of piston on the bed, we will also need the make, model and year of your tanning machine. The strength of the piston is measured in “neutons”, so there should be a 4 digit number with an “N” at the end, such as 490N. This may vary from one bed to the next, so complete information is important to get the right pat the first time.


Question:
My bed won’t come on – where do I start to find the problem?

Answer:
1. Check to make sure it is plugged in and the breaker is on.
2. Next, go to the timer and make sure it is plugged in to the bed and is operating properly.
3. Check to see that the emergency stop switch is in the “on” position.
4. Look behind the bed and see if anything has been unplugged from the bed.
5. Make sure the breaker is “off”, then open up the bed component area. If there is a ballast tray, make sure all wires and plugs are where they should be and are plugged in. Moving a bed to clean behind it when it has a component tray underneath can put a strain on power cables that may come loose.
6. While in the component area, check the wiring harness for burnt or discolored wires and plugs.
7. Using a volt meter, turn the breaker back on and check for voltage at the main power wires. A good rule is to “Follow the flow of electricity”. Usually, where it stops is where the problem is.
8. When this fails to solve the problem, call in a service technician or electrician.